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Viewed: 487 -- Replies: 13 |
| Posted | New soft shell |
| 01-02-2006 by Linda Chenapa | I am getting another soft shell tonight, will post photos later. |
| 01-02-2006 by brittone05 | Congrats Linda - at this ratem you will have to move house into the local swimming pool lolol Look forward to the pics  |
| 01-02-2006 by Linda Chenapa | Think I have just as much water in my house now as they have in the local pool! |
| 02-02-2006 by emma | now we know who is causing the water shortage they were worrying about on the news last night!! |
| 03-02-2006 by brittone05 | Linda - could you tell me what the care requirements are for a yellow bellied slider please and is there anyone you know of local to Wirral that keeps them! I may have one coming to me as a rehome but I don't really keep amphibs as you know so would be looking for another home for it. Thanks |
| 03-02-2006 by Linda Chenapa | They should have a tank that is at least 20 gals for hatchlings and small YBS.
Larger turtles will obviously need larger setups. It is best to buy the biggest setup that you can afford at the time: you will save money in the long run by not having to upgrade every 6 months. Water temperature should be somewhere between 75-80 degrees. A submersible water heater can be used to attain this. Water depth for hatchlings should never be more than double the length of their shell: they are not great swimmers and can, on occasion, drown. For older turtles, it is generally accepted that the water should be deep enough so that the turtle should not be able stand on the bottom of its tank and reach the surface. Basking Rock and Lamp: A basking rock is necessary. This area should be completely dry and underneath the basking lamp. This is important because your turtle needs to dry off completely to prevent bacterial and fungal infections. Basking temperatures underneath the lamp should be between 80-85 degrees. Make sure there is enough variation between the water temperature and the basking temperature to promote them using the basking rock, and please use a Habistat to control this properly. UVB: A UVB source is extremely important for your turtle. Without UVB, your turtle will develop Metabolic Bone Disease because they won't be able to properly synthesize their vitamin D3 intake. A florescent UVB light or natural sunlight are your choices. Filters: A filter should be used to improve water quality and cut down on maintenance and cleaning. Even with a filter, 50% water changes should be done weekly. Filters may cut down on solid waste in the tank but it can do nothing for turtle urine. Water will still be dirty even if the filter makes it look clean. Diet: YBS are omnivorous. In the wild, hatchling and younger YBS are primarily carnivorous and become more herbivorous with age. Turtle pellets are commonly the first thing that a new turtle owner turns to. However, pellets should make up no more than 25% of their diet. Animal protein should make up another 25%. RES thrive on earthworms and crickets (feed only from a pet store source to reduce the risk of pesticides and parasites), cooked chicken, and tuna. They also enjoy snails, which are a good source of calcium. Plant Matter should make up the other 50% of their diet. Feed dark, broad-leafed plants such as collard, mustard, red leaf. Shredded carrots and sweet potato are good choices because they contain a lot of vitamin A. Squash and zucchini are good choices, as well. There are many safe aquarium plants that your RES will also like to chew on. Supplements: Calcium supplements should be used regularly. You can buy the little calcium turtles from your pet store or cuttlebone (commonly used for birds). Do not be shocked if your turtle bites off large chunks of it at a time. This will not harm it. Hope this is of some help. |
| 04-02-2006 by brittone05 | Thanks Linda - it is a great help - it has helped me realise that I am not ready to take on the whole water thing!! I have a friend who keeps turtles though so will ask them to take the YBS for me. Thanks |
| 04-02-2006 by ian g | most of your info is correct linda, but the basking temp should really be between 90-100f and they should have 10 gallons of water per in of turt plus 15%, also cooked chicken and tuna are not good for them at all as they contain high amounts of fat (chicken) and high amounts of salt (tuna) plus with a good powerful external filter and the right volume of water you should be able to reduce water changes to 20% a week. not trying to start an argument just correcting a few points! |
| 04-02-2006 by brittone05 | thanks Ian - I still don't want it though!! I am working on it's new home as we speak |
| 04-02-2006 by Linda Chenapa | Got the info off a web site, thought they would know best?? |
| 05-02-2006 by brittone05 | Linda - do you know of any slider rescues in the North West?? I don't have the facilities to house it myself and our local herp society is not answering the phone!! Any help would be greatl appreciated |
| 05-02-2006 by Linda Chenapa | No sorry I don't. Have you tried your local vet or pet shop, they may know? |
| 06-02-2006 by brittone05 | Sure did! I will come up with something - just got to do it quicker as he gets here on Thursday!!!! |
| 06-02-2006 by ian g | shame you`re so far away i would have gladly taken him on! good luck anyway |
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